Welcome to Hidden Fence Troubleshooting!

If you are having problems with your fence, you may be experiencing dog escapes or challenges, or be hearing a wire damage alarm on the wall.
Maybe the collar appears to have dead batteries, or the lights on the wall are out.

Step by step, you can find your issue here...

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First, check to see if the dog collar beeps at the edge of the yard.

1. If not, when did you last replace the batteries? - you may need fresh batteries.


2. If it beeps, continue.
3. If the collar does not beep 5-6 feet from the wire, skip downward.

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(the easiest place to test and to know where the wire is located is probably the driveway)

The collar should beep about 4-6 inches from the wire.

If it does, then we know:

• Batteries are good.
• Transmitter on the wall is putting out it's signal.
• Dog collar is hearing the transmitter's signal.

If you are troubleshooting an escape problem and are in this situation, you are fortunate - there are only a few possibilities left:

1. collar too loose (by far, the highest odds left)
2. collar beeping but not shocking (rare but not impossible)
3. collar shocking but too low (unlikely if training was completed and dog has been avoiding fence consistently for a period of time)

If 1 collar too loose - There are several key things to check regarding collar contact. Keep in mind that long hair and or thick undercoats increase the chances your problem will be with collar contact. (collar should be close to chin and by ears, because that is the thin part of your dog's neck)

Here is a collar contact test and solution by a long-time fence professional:

1. Be sure to have the collar snug, and sitting fully forward on the neck (at the ears) by pulling the fat and fur backwards using your left hand, (towards the tail), AND, with your right pointer finger, pulling the nylon forward at the top of the neck.


2. Next (and MOST IMPORTANT), gather and pull the (underside) fat and fur of the neck backwards towards his tail, pull the receiver box away from the neck AND forward towards the nose - RELEASE the receiver/collar first and THEN release the fat and fur.


3. Now, REMOVE ENOUGH SLACK, to provide a light contact with the PROBES TO SKIN. This will ensure that the collar is held and pushed fully forward towards the SMALLEST CIRCUMFERENCE AREA, disallowing movement, and therefore, collar-loosening. Lets call it the "'FAT FREE' Collar adjustment technique"! This allows a more consistent light connection with the neck, making sure that the correction level raising during training remains incremental to your pets’ experience and it will help keep a high level of respect for the fence by your pet in the future .

If you are having problems with contact, we highly recommend these spring loaded probes to help get through thick under coats.

As with any collar, do not leave it on longer than 12 hours at a time in the same position to avoid causing neck sores.

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If the collar does beep but only very close to wire, that is often an indication of damaged/deteriorating wire, which is not broken all the way through yet.

Also, check the status of your wall-mounted transmitter to be sure that it's plugged in.

• The transmitter light should be on, Pet Stop® transmitters should read a number (average = 12)
• If the alarm on the wall-mounted transmitter is sounding, then you have a broken wire.

Another check worth doing (if there is no beep at the wire) is to move the receiver close to the transmitter and see if you can get a beep - that would show a live battery and active collar.